I love it when Steve posts stuff about how cheap he can buy tools.
It's important to note when shopping for DMMs, if you are going to use said DMM to diagnose problems with engine controls: to prevent damage to the ECM when using that DMM on engine controls circuits, no matter what the price, a DMM must have an input impedance of at least 10 Megohms.
I took a quick look at that link and was unable to determine the input impedance of the "Mustool MT108T".
Believing that one gets what one pays for and considering the $13 price, I'd want to make sure it has at least 10-meg impedance before I'd buy. Admittedly, the "MT108T" is a bargain compared to many other automotive DMMs but the money you save would be far, far exceeded by the cost of a new ECM if you fried your ZR-1s engine controller using cheap-assed DMM with too low an input impedance to diagnose a circuit problem.
Just for reference, my perspective on buying diagnostic tools is the polar opposite of Jasik's. I want the best stuff I can get. The automotive DMM I use, and have used for about a dozen years on C4 ZR-1s and all my other cars and trucks, is a Fluke 88V.
I have tested others and the least expensive DMM I've tested which, also, met my minimum requirements–one of which is 10-megohm impedance–was the Actron 7677. It is a lot less expensive than the Fluke 88V, listing at 60 bucks and street-priced around 40, but, still quite a bit more expensive than that Chinese thing Jasik bought.
In between those two extremes in price is another DMM, the AutoMeter DM-46.
> On 23May 2018, at 10:04 AM, Steve Jasik <[log in to unmask]> wrote:
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